Friday nights in Douai

Tonight my merry band of English assistants sprinted through fog and strobe lights, dodged between graffiti-covered walls, crouched in corners and screamed at the sight of each other. We have discovered possibly the funnest place in Douai: Fortress Laser. For the low, low price of 4 euros a head, we got to spend 15 minutes shooting at each other in a war zone. And it was awesome — a sweaty, adrenaline-pumping thrill ride. I even won, probably for the first time in my entire laser-tagging life.

To say that Douai is small doesn't give an accurate description. Certainly, 50,000 inhabitants make up a small town, but it's more than that. Starting from 7 p.m. the streets are empty, the shops and cafes are closed, and once the sky gets dark the atmosphere feels as lonely and creepy as 4 a.m. — even if it's only 8:30 p.m.

We're all trying to give Douai a chance — how well can you possibly know a town after less than three weeks? Last Friday we found a concert by Les Anges Guardiens (The Guardian Angels) at a rustic little Irish-style pub across La Scarpe (the canal) from our building. The music was loud, the air was warm and we started the evening drinking delicious 2-euro wine at a long table outside in a square with plenty of French people. The bar is cozy with rough wooden tables, stone floors and banners for various beers and liquors. We had a quiet Friday night there the week before as well, sitting in a corner sipping white wine.

Part of Douai's somewhat-empty atmosphere comes from all the buildings that are, well, empty. Entire streets seem to be full of closed shops with "For Rent" signs plastered across their windows. Even on busy streets as many as 30% of the store fronts are without stores. I can feel the current economic troubles often in Douai — unemployment, people seeking social services, bars and shops going out of business. The eighteenth-century buildings are beautiful, and the people live up to their nice reputation, but I sometimes feel a certain sadness here. Signs proclaim Douai as "une ville qui bouge!" ("A town on the move!") but most people don't seem too proud to be here or too keen on staying.

All that said, I'm optimistic about this place. Travel opportunities aside, (And they are amazing travel opportunities.) I've found parts of the city I really like. The belfry, for example, the intricate carvings on the doors, the colorful shutters and trim on some windows — I love really looking and appreciating that every-day beauty. I've found a little cafe as well, called L'Equitable. They sell fair-trade, responsible coffee and tea, along with delicious crêpes and soups. I've made friends with the owner, a short, rosy-cheeked man with a huge smile and a welcoming demeanor. L'Equitable welcomes average Douaisiens and misfits alike, and I'm slowly getting to know the staff. I'm going to become a regular, because that's the way to enjoy this town — I have to embrace it for what it is, and get to know the people who are happy to be here.